Kalbelia:
the cobra dancers of thar desert
DYUTIMAN MUKHOPADHYAY
Found-art/photography of rusted iron-mesh wire twisted by God.
The fiancé is pretty
Like the petals of a marigold
Beware the evil eye
You are like the third petal of a green flower
Protect yourself from the evil eye with an amulet…
— Traditional Kalbelia lyrics;
(from the French film Latcho Drom ("Safe Journey", 1993); Dir. Tony Gatlif).
In the heart of Rajasthan's vast Thar Desert, the Kalbelia tribe carries a legacy as mesmerizing as the serpents they once charmed. This ancient community, believed to be ancestors of the European Romani gypsies, lived a life intertwined with snakes. For generations, Kalbelia men wandered through villages, carrying cobras in cane baskets, while their women sang haunting melodies, danced with fluid grace, and sought alms. Their primary livelihood revolved around snake-catching, charming, and trading venom—a skill that earned them both reverence and mystery.
At the centre of their cultural identity lies the Kalbelia dance—a hypnotic performance where women don long black skirts adorned with silver threads. Spinning in rhythmic circles, their bodies undulate like serpents, mimicking the sinuous movements of cobras. Accompanied by traditional music, the dance is one of Rajasthan's most sensuous and captivating art forms. The songs they perform are rich with tales of folklore and mythology, often improvised during performances and passed down orally from one generation to the next. Recognizing its cultural significance, UNESCO added Kalbelia songs and dances to its Intangible Heritage List in 2010.
Snake charming, once a widespread practice in India, was a cornerstone of the Kalbelia way of life. With their flute-like instrument, charmers would seemingly lull venomous snakes into submission, performing daring acts that drew crowds eager to witness the spectacle.
The Wildlife Protection Act of 1972 dealt a blow to the Kalbelia's traditional livelihood, forcing them to formally abandon snake handling. Today, their artistry has become their mainstay. Kalbelia dances and songs are celebrated both in India and abroad, though their income often depends on seasonal tourism. When opportunities for performances dwindle, the tribe turns to farming and cattle grazing to sustain themselves.
The Kalbelia's mystique is further deepened by their associations with esoteric practices. Some among them, following ancient tantric traditions, are known to use snake venom for transcendental experiences. The venom, believed to act as an analgesic and aphrodisiac, was even used in psychedelic rituals. A chilling study documented in the Indian Journal of Psychological Medicine (2018) described two men from Rajasthan who allowed cobras to bite their tongues, seeking a high beyond what conventional drugs could offer. Their eerie addiction captured international attention, sparking curiosity about whether they had developed immunity through years of exposure or were medical anomalies. Mythology intertwines with Kalbelia’s beliefs, as they revere Guru Kanipa, a disciple of Lord Shiva, who, according to legend, drank a bowl of poison offered by Shiva himself. This act of devotion, they believe, earned Shiva's promise to protect Kanipa and his descendants—giving rise to the Kalbelia identity, named after the “bowl of kaal” (death).
The Kalbelia tribe, with its enchanting dances, haunting songs, and mystic rituals, embodies a world where myth and reality blur—a living testament to resilience and the enduring allure of ancient traditions in the face of modern challenges.
— Artwork, Essay, Photography by Dyutiman Mukhopadhyay.
December, 2024.
— Inspired by the 1993 French film Latcho Drom ("Safe Journey") directed by Tony Gatlif. The film traces the Romani people's migration from northwestern India to Spain, using music as its primary narrative thread.
References:
Ashar, H. (2021, Jun 8). The Kalbelia - The Infamous Gypsies of Rajasthan’s Deserts. Online: https://homegrown.co.in/homegrown-creators/the-kalbelia-the-infamous-gypsies-of-rajasthans-deserts
Khairnar, R.V. (2023). Inconceivable Creation: The Kalbeliya Dance Form & Its Conception To Worldwide Identification. Online: https://www.granthaalayahpublication.org/Arts-Journal/ShodhKosh/article/view/464/627
Stejskal, C. (2012) Kalbelias. Online: https://galli.in/2012/03/kalbelias-christian-stejskal.html
The Telegraph, UK. (2018) Online: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/global-health/climate-and-people/venom-highs-men-india-get-deadly-snakes-bite-tongues-buzz/
UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage (2010). Kalbelia folk songs and dances of Rajasthan. Online: https://ich.unesco.org/en/RL/kalbelia-folk-songs-and-dances-of-rajasthan-00340